Beautiful skin is more often due to your genes than a result of the types of creams and lotions you put on it. This doesn’t mean that your skin, no matter what type, cannot be improved by eating a proper diet, getting regular exercise, and developing and maintaining a skin care routine. And it is never too young to start caring for your skin, since the benefits will last a lifetime.

But before moving any further, it’s important to understand your skin type and the basic skin structure and its functions.

Skin Structure

The skin is made up of four layers; the horny outer layer, which consists of dead cells; the epidermis; the dermis; and the subcutaneous layer of fat. The skin is designed to be waterproof, and nothing that is put on the skin, such as moisturizers, cellular renewal creams or anti-ageing creams, can penetrate any deeper than the outermost layers of the epidermis.

Skin grows from within outwards. This occurs at the basal cell layer, which separates the dermis from the epidermis. These cells are continuously reproducing and moving forward towards the skin’s surface. When these cells die, they form the horny layer that acts as a safety barrier and protects the fresh cells underneath. At the surface these cells form keratin, a layer of tough material that is thickest in body areas subject to the most wear and tear, such as the palms of the hands and soles of the feet. The surface layer is in a constant state of renewal as the dead cells are sloughed off and replaced by other cells. Exfoliation removes this surface layer, leaving the skin smooth.

Collagen, the elastic tissue in the dermis layer, give the skin its suppleness, smoothness, and plumpness. As you age, the collagen tissues break down, which causes skin to sag, wrinkle, and thin. Nothing short of cosmetic surgery can prevent these signs of ageing. The rate at which your skin ages is inherited, so if your parents have young-looking skin, chances are you will too.

Before you start a skincare program, it is important to identify the type of skin you have. Bear in mind that the condition of the skin changes week by week and month by month and can alter dramatically over the course of a lifetime, so be prepared to vary your routine to match your current complexion. For instance, the skin produces more sebum at certain times of the month, and this will affect the oiliness of the skin.

Test to determine your skin type

Before you wash your face in the morning, press a large open tissue against your face, holding it in place for a few moments. Now hold the tissue up to the light. If it is completely clean, your skin is dry and possibly sensitive. If there is a trace of sebum, your skin is normal. If there is a clear T-shaped imprint of sebum from the nose and forehead you have combination skin. A complete print of your face is a sign of oily skin.

Each person’s skin is individual but tends to fall into one of four main types; dry skin, oily skin, combination skin or sensitive skin, depending on the level of activity of the sebaceous glands. Your skin type will determine the texture of your skin and what kind of skin care routine you need.

Dark haired, dark skinned women often have oily skin, which is the result of overactive sebaceous glands. Oily skin is prone to breakouts, and often has a shiny film all over, particularly on the nose and cheeks. It is frequently large pored and coarser looking than dry skin. Although younger girls with oily skin often find they have continual breakouts and acne, oily skin is less likely to wrinkle early.

Cleansing

Oily skin looks shiny and has enlarged pores, giving it a thick appearance, due to the excess secretion of sebum. If you don’t maintain a thorough cleansing routine, these pores not only hold grease and dirt but also stale sweat and make-up, which can lead to other skin problems. If you have a very oily diet this also shows itself on your face. If you use a soap-free facial wash follow this with an oil-based cleanser, since sebum dissolves in oil and not water. Apply to the skin twice daily, massaging well in, and then remove with damp cotton wool. You could also use a toner made from rosewater to remove any final traces of dirt. If you suffer from spots or acne try tea tree oil. This has drying and antiseptic properties without leaving behind a flaky surface.

Moisturizing

Oily skin needs a moisturizer. Choose a light moisturizer and apply it after cleansing. Good quality moisturizers often contain ingredients such as vitamins, sunscreen, and herbal extracts that can aid oily complexions.

Women who are fair complexioned and light haired usually have dry skin. Such skin has little natural oil due to underactive sebaceous glands, it burns easily in the sun, and is frequently also sensitive. Dry skin is usually very fine and has few visible pores; it often develops flaky patches in cold weather. It is frequently affected by temperature changes, artificial heating or air conditioning, and air pollution.

Women with dry skin rarely have acne as a teenager, but as they get older the lack of natural lubrication can cause fine lines and wrinkles to develop prematurely. The most important aspect of caring for dry skin is to moisturize it regularly.

Cleansing

To help preserve the protective oily film, the acid mantle, which covers the skin and locks in moisture, avoid soap and water. If you prefer, wash off cleansers using a soap-free bar or face wash, but restrict this to the mornings. Constantly wetting and drying the skin makes a dry-skin condition worse. It is better to use a cream or oil-based cleanser in the morning and evening. Apply a little to the skin, massage in gently, leave for a few seconds, then wipe off with cotton wool, a damp flannel or a soft muslin cloth. Damp cotton wool is ideal as it stops moisture being drawn out of the skin. Tissues are best avoided as they can scratch delicate skin. Cactus has an incredibly high moisture retention capacity and is ideal for rehydrating the skin, so try to find a cleanser that contains this ingredient. If you use a toner make sure it is alcohol free.

You may wish to make your own cleanser. You can experiment with various types of natural products that you think may suit your skin type but here are a couple of examples of cleansers that can be made at home.

Moisturizing

Dry and mature skin needs more regular moisturizing than younger skin. It is best to apply a moisturizer directly after cleansing. Over time you will notice that your skin doesn’t produce as much natural oil as it used to, which reduces its ability to retain moisture. This can leave the face looking wrinkled and feeling dry, rough, and less flexible. Applying moisturizer can help to prevent this. Choose one that is absorbed easily and doesn’t have a greasy film on the skin. Top up moisture levels throughout the day by spritzing your skin frequently with a water spray or spray-on tonic. If your skin is very dry and you live in a centrally heated home, consider using a humidifier to put moisture back into the air.

Most women have combination skin, which has areas of both dryness and oiliness. The greasy patches are usually down the centre of the face, forming a T shape, while the remainder of the skin on the face is drier, finer in texture, and in need of more moisturizing. If the difference between the two areas is great they should be treated with separate skin care products.

Cleansing

To prevent spots and blackheads, which often appear in oily areas, cleanse twice a day with a soap-free or oil based cleanser. Oil based cleansers work well on oily areas of skin as they dissolve the skin’s own sebum and gently remove any excess. It’s not essential to use a toner but may help to reduce the number of large pores.

Moisturizing

After cleansing, apply moisturizer twice daily all over the face, not just on the dry areas, as the dehydration that leads to wrinkling is not caused by oil on the skin but by a lack of water in the top layers. The sebum on your skin serves to trap the moisture below this layer.

This type of skin reacts externally and internally to changes in life. Can be both oily and dry, it can be easily disturbed by skin-care products and cosmetics. It tends to go blotchy and have broken  veins at the same time, it might show a flushed or reddened look or might even itch.

You might need to consult a Dermatologist in serious cases, in other instances proper care and attention can help you to survive with this kind of skin type.

Apart from these major skin types, there might be other exaggerated versions of major skin types, like dehydrated skin, acne-blemished skin, ageing and hydrated skin.

This is the first step in your routine. Morning and evening are usually the best times for cleansing, although if you are going out in the evening and reapplying makeup, always cleanse your face first. There is such a wide range of facial cleansers on the market today, formulated for various types of skin, that you will soon discover the one that suits you best. The decision as to which type of cleanser you choose is a personal one, but it is important that you select a product that is right for your skin.

Women used to believe that soap and water should be used to clean the face, but soap is drying and defatting, and should not be used on the face unless your skin is very oily. Special soapless cleansing bars are perfect if you love the feel of soap and water. These are degined to be gentle on the skin, particularly dry skin. Other cleansers that foam up when combined with water are available - these are ideal if you dislike the feeling of cream. But don’t forget that hard water alone is defatting and dries out the skin.

There is a wide variety of cleansing creams and lotions available. These are probably the best way to clean, as they are gentle on the skin and contain none of the harsh ingredients that some of the other forms of cleansers have. Most cleansing lotions are intended to be applied to the skin and then wiped off with clean cotton wool pads or tissues; others are rinsed off with water and a flannel.

After cleansing, make sure that any residue of cleanser is thoroughly removed. With facial bars or soaps, rinse your face repeatedly to remove any film that might adhered to the skin. If your face still feels sticky, wipe over it again with dampened cotton wool pads - if it doesn’t come away clean, rinse again. If using a cream or lotion, wipe the face with a dampened cotton wool pad to make sure that all the cream is removed.

Personal Skin Care Plan

Cleanser for Oily Skin - Choose an oil-free soap or a water-soluble lotion. Cleanse at least twice a day.

Cleanser for Combination Skin - Choose a creamy lotion with a light oil agent or a soapless cleansing bar. Cleanse twice a day.

Cleanser for Dry and Mature Skin - Choose a creamy lotion or a soapless cleansing bar. Cleanse once or twice a day

Every day skin loses some of its natural moisture. This process, called dehydration, is made worse by extreme temperatures, central heating and air conditioning. A moisturizer is probably the most important skin care product you can use, as it helps to slow down the normal dehydration process by creating a fine film on the skin’s surface to prevent moisture from escaping. Moisturizers are what help to keep the skin smooth, soft and elastic, and gives it a fresh youthful look.

The majority of moisturizers are emulsions of oil and water. The oil in water moisturizers have a higher water content and are lighter and less heavy; these are good for use during the day when makeup will be applied over it, or for women with oily skin. The water in oil types consist of more oil than water, and are usually used at night when it is important to slow down the dehydration process or for women with very dry skin. As with all skin cae products, choose a moisturizer for your skin type. Ask the salesperson at the cosmetics counter to recommend the appropriate moisturizer.

A moisturizer should be applied after cleansing and toning. Don’t apply it heavily, as only a light film is needed, and don’t apply moisturizer around the eye area as it can cause the delicate skin in this area to retain fluid and become puffy. don’t forget to use it on your neck and throat, which can become dry and dehydrated just like the skin on your face. Always wait a few minutes after applying moisturizer before putting on your makeup; this allows time for it to dry and form a smooth base for your foundation.

Personal Skin Care Plan

Moisturizer for Oily Skin - Use a light, water-based moisturizer once a day; twice a day in winter.

Moisturizer for Combination Skin - Use a light, hydrating formula twice a day.

Moisturizer for Dry Skin - Use a rich hydrating formula containing oil two or three times a day.

Regular cleansing helps to remove some of the dead skin cells from the face, but some always remain which can give the face a dull, lifeless appearance. Exfoliation is the process of sloughing off the dead skin cells, which are then replaced by fresh cells underneath. If this is done regularly, it will speed up the turnover and replacement of cells, which helps to open blocked pores. Exfoliation makes the skin feel smoother and softer, it improves the texture, and make the skin look fresh and clean.

Using a complexion brush when cleansing your face is one method of exfoliation, as it is the exfoliating face mask. Best of all are the special cleansing grains and facial scrubs that are designed to gently slough off dead skin. Most of these contain tiny particles of natural ingredients and feel slightly rough to touch. The grains and particle create gentle friction that scrubs away the dead skin cells, and can be used on all types of skin, although they should be used less frequently on dry or sensitive skin.

Using Exfoliants

Exfoliants leave the skin feeling very smooth, but they may stimulate the sebaceous glands and leave the skin oilier than before. Most are intended to be used once a week - they should not be used daily. Exfoliation should always be done after cleansing the face. Most exfoliants are applied to slightly dampened skin; follow the manufacturer’s instructions for this. Apply a thin layer of exfoliant on the skin, avoiding the eye and lip area. Rub gently, using circular motions, then tissue away or rinse off the excess. Always apply moisturizer after exfoliation.

Personal Skin Care Plan

Exfoliant for Oily Skin - Use an oil-absorbing scrub every other day; do not exfoliate acne.

Exfoliant for Combination Skin - Use a gentle scrub mask two or three times a week.

Exfoliant for Dry Skin - Use a cream based mild scrub once a week.

Toners, often called skin tonics and freshners, are the second step in a skin care routine. Their job is to remove any remaining grease, dirt or makeup left after cleansing. Proper toning will also refresh your skin, making it feel cool and clean.

All toners are liquid, but there are various formulations, depending on the amount of alcohol they contain, available for all types of skin. Some are particularly good for dry skin, being alcohol free , while others have astringent properties that are particularly good for greasy skin and help to remove excess oil. To use a toner, just apply it to a cotton wool ball or pad and wipe over the face, avoiding the eye area and lips.

Personal Skin Care Plan

Toner for Oily Skin - Choose a toner containing alcohol; use it twice a day.

Toner for Combination skin - Choose a gentle low-alcohol toner; use it twice a day.

Toner for Dry and Mature Skin - Choose an extra mild alcohol-free toner; use it once a day.